Sevilla

Sevilla, often written Seville in English, is the capital of Andalusia in southern Spain, and it is widely considered one of the most romantic and quintessentially Spanish cities in the country. It sits along the Guadalquivir River, the only major navigable river in Spain, which once allowed ships to sail all the way from the Atlantic Ocean into the heart of the city. Sevilla is famous for flamenco, its role in the story of Christopher Columbus and Spanish exploration, and a historic center packed with Moorish palaces, grand cathedrals, and orange trees lining nearly every street.

A bit of backstory

Sevilla has a long history stretching back to Roman times, but its most distinctive character comes from the centuries it spent under Moorish rule, beginning in 712 AD and lasting more than 500 years, longer than almost anywhere else in Spain. That period left a deep architectural legacy still visible throughout the city today. After the Christian Reconquista retook the city in 1248, Sevilla went on to become one of the most important cities in the world during the Age of Exploration, since it held a royal monopoly on trade with the Americas starting in the 1500s, making it, for a time, one of the wealthiest cities in Europe.

A fact that often surprises visitors is that Sevilla Cathedral, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, was deliberately built on such a grand scale that, according to a phrase often attributed to its 15th-century builders, future generations should think them mad for attempting it. Christopher Columbus is buried inside, or at least partially, since there has long been historical debate over exactly where his remains rest. Another interesting detail is that the cathedral's bell tower, the Giralda, was originally built as a minaret for a mosque in the 12th century and was cleverly converted rather than demolished when the cathedral was built around it.

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The Alcázar of Sevilla is one of the highlights of any visit, a stunning royal palace that began as a Moorish fort and was rebuilt and expanded over the centuries by both Muslim and Christian rulers, resulting in a striking mix of architectural styles, particularly the intricate Mudéjar style. It remains a working royal palace today, making it the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe, and its gardens are just as impressive as the interior, filled with fountains, pavilions, and shaded walkways. Fans of the show Game of Thrones may also recognize parts of the palace, which were used as a filming location.

Sevilla Cathedral and the Giralda tower are the other must-see combination in the city center, and climbing the Giralda is well worth the effort, since the ramps inside, originally built so guards could ride horses to the top, make the climb easier than a typical staircase and lead to sweeping views over the city's rooftops. The Santa Cruz neighborhood, the old Jewish quarter just next to the cathedral, is one of the most atmospheric parts of the city, full of narrow whitewashed streets, hidden courtyards, and small squares perfect for a leisurely wander.

Plaza de España, built for a 1929 exhibition, is one of the most photographed spots in the city, a huge semicircular building with a canal running along its front, decorative tiled alcoves representing each Spanish province, and small bridges crossing the water. It sits inside Maria Luisa Park, a large and pleasant green space that offers a good break from the summer heat, which can be intense in Sevilla, regularly reaching well above 35 degrees Celsius in July and August.

Eat like a local

Flamenco is deeply associated with Sevilla and the wider Andalusia region, and while the art form's exact origins are debated, the city remains one of the best places to see an authentic performance, whether in a formal theater or a smaller, more intimate tablao. Food in Sevilla leans heavily toward tapas, and the city is often credited as one of the birthplaces of tapas culture itself, so hopping between small bars for a few plates at a time is very much the local way to eat.

Traveler's cheat sheet

Sevilla's historic center is best explored on foot, since many of its narrow medieval streets are not accessible by car in any case, and the city is generally flat, which makes walking comfortable compared to hillier Spanish cities like Granada. Bicycles are also popular locally, with a citywide bike-share scheme available for visitors.

Spring, particularly around the Feria de Abril festival in April, is one of the most popular times to visit, with pleasant temperatures and a genuinely festive local atmosphere. Summer heat in Sevilla is intense, regularly among the hottest of any major city in Europe, so many experienced visitors prefer spring or autumn instead.

For a day trip, the whitewashed hill town of Ronda, about two hours away by car or bus, is dramatically split in two by a deep gorge crossed by a striking stone bridge, and it is well worth the journey for the views alone. Closer to Sevilla, the town of Carmona offers a smaller-scale but still impressive taste of Andalusian history, with its own well-preserved Alcázar and Roman necropolis just a short drive from the city.

The euro is used throughout Sevilla and the rest of Spain, and tipping customs remain light, with rounding up the bill generally considered sufficient at most restaurants and tapas bars. Spanish is the local language, and the distinctive Andalusian accent, which drops certain consonants compared to standard Spanish, can take a little getting used to even for visitors who already speak some Spanish.

Given the heat, especially in summer, many visitors find it best to see the main sights in the morning, rest during the hottest part of the afternoon the way locals do, and then head back out in the evening when the temperature drops and the city's plazas and bars really come alive.